Jaisalmer

Driving into Jaisalmer, you could be mistaken for thinking you'd entered into a desert state somewhere in the Middle-East: from the geography to the architecture. The sun blazes. Sewerage/drainage channels run down the sides of, and occasionally criss-cross the streets. A family of pigs wallows in one, blinking smugly at me through the heat. I haven't had a bacon sandwich for weeks.

Our hotel - The Royal Jaisalmer- is great. There is a series of small rooms around a pool, dazzlingly colourful in the midday sun.



We rest here for the day after another sleepless night train.

An enormous fort dominates the city. It is a lot less touristy here. Judging by the number of hotels being built, I get the sense that it will not be this way for long. Still, the further we get from the start of our trip, the more relaxed it gets: perhaps I am just getting used to it; perhaps it's a little of both.

We eat in the rooftop restaurant above the hotel. Sheets hanging from the ceiling, it looks like a bedouin tent. We wait to be collected for our desert safari.

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